3 Days in Old Havana
Old and new, East and West meet in Old Havana's Chinatown.
It's alluring to refer to Old Havana as a time machine. After all, where else can you go that still has so many classic 1950s American cars roaming the streets (as many as 60,000 apparently), sprinkled among vehicles from defunct Soviet Union automakers and newer models from China and Korea. But the phrase almost implies that time has stood still, when in fact it's the ravages of time and political turmoil that makes the port city the unique place it is today. From the candy-colored cars seemingly plucked from fantasies of old Hollywood, to the run-down colonial architecture on every street, it's a timeline that presents itself like a wall peeling with decades of paper and paint.
This is only part analogy; many of the buildings in Old Havana are actually peeling, and reveal layers upon layers of paint that have long since sloughed off the walls. It's not hard to imagine what Old Havana may have been like in its heyday. You can still see it in the buildings that have been preserved over the years by the government and transformed into museums or converted into hotels. It's a glimpse into a bygone era—one of opulence and luxury, built from Havana's past as a booming port and a colonial jewel. It was a city that called to travelers from all over the world, who couldn't stay away from the city's cobbled streets, laid back attitude, and subtly sweet mojitos that continue to be out of this world, even as its own history of rum making has seen its share of upheaval.
Much of that has been papered over now. The opulence is still there, but aside from the select buildings that have been maintained, much of it has fallen into disrepair. Walking through the streets, you can peek into any number of dilapidated buildings that still sport the familiar architecture of the area—marble floors, tall ceilings, carefully carved crown molding, wrought iron handrails lining sweeping marble staircases, and intricate elevators that now sit motionless. Many homes have makeshift platforms that cut the rooms in half vertically, adding more living space to quarters that would otherwise just be cavernously tall.
One of the many stunning buildings bordering Plaza del Cristo.
The ever-ubiquitous Che Guevara.
An abandoned building in the Centro neighborhood of Havana.
It was a stroke of incredible fortune that led me to Cuba. My friend’s original travel plans had fallen through, leaving her with her flights and lodging already booked, but no travel companion. Luckily, flights were still cheap, I had some vacation time saved up at work, and I had just renewed my passport a few months prior. I was totally in. Cuba was one of those places I had always wanted to visit, especially before it was changed by an influx of American real estate developers and hoteliers (something that, for better or for worse, has now been momentarily postponed). Had it not been for this surreptitious text message, though, my plans would have likely just been shuffled to the back burner, as so many travel plans are.
A few weeks later, I found myself wandering around Fort Lauderdale International, waiting for the Cuba visa agent to arrive at the gate so I could purchase my travel visa. A couple hours after that, I was touching down in Havana, ready for three days of city exploration, ropa vieja, and Havana Club.
It’s a little bittersweet looking back now. The trip was almost a year ago, and already so much has changed since then. Travel restrictions have tightened for non-Cuban Americans visiting the country, and while Americans are still able to legally visit Cuba (and should!) through approved tour operators and cruise companies, the self-organized trip that my friend and I took won't be easily repeated in the near future. It's a downer for those of us who relish creating our own itineraries and letting our moods chart our schedules. I am certainly happy for the memories that I made, for the stars that aligned in just the right way for this trip to take place, and for everything that I experienced in a breathtaking city that had seen better days. But when I think back on the trip now, it feels like a brief moment frozen in time, when multiple airlines were still running daily flights to Cuba, when Americans were still abuzz with the excitement of going to a place that had been made inaccessible for so long.
Once outside the airport, I was able to meet up with my friend, who had arrived on a different flight an hour earlier. We hopped into a cab arranged by our casa particular (private homestay) host, and set off for Old Havana. The ride is pleasant, and takes you past a few notable sights, including the Plaza de la Revolución with its famous sculpture mural of Che Guevara and the Coliseo de la Ciudad Deportiva indoor arena. The route is also speckled with plenty of roadside propaganda billboards touting the virtues of communism, the Revolution, and Castro and Guevara. It’s a bit surreal, and a reminder that you really are in Cuba. Old Havana, though, is like stepping through a portal and into a postcard.
A pedicab waiting for passengers.
For visitors with only a few days to spend in the city, Old Havana is a marvel of convenience. Everything is within walking distance, and with the exception of a few main thoroughfares, most of the roads are very pedestrian-friendly. The few cabs that do shamble down the side roads do so slowly and cautiously, and are generally patient about the people and stray animals that share the streets.
Having spent all of the previous night and most of the morning flying, by the time we got to our home, a beautiful high-ceilinged apartment with a marbled balcony, we were famished. We asked our host for some dining tips, and set off to hunt for sustenance in nearby Plaza Vieja. We ended up at La Vitrola, where we enjoyed great service and a lively atmosphere, but unfortunately bland food. This isn’t to say that the food wasn’t well-prepared. It was. My fish was perfectly fried, with a golden crust and delicate, flaky flesh. My friend’s stew was moist and tender. It just didn’t taste like much. It’s the unfortunate side effect of decades of rationing, and the high cost and rarity of spices. I was reminded of the Indian fairy tale, "The Princess Who Loved Her Father Like Salt," a parable about the extraordinary value of salt. Without salt, food gets lost in the shadows.
We fared better food-wise for the rest of our trip. Overall, we were careful to only dine at paladares, family-run restaurants that tend to be more flavorful than the bland state-run places. It's also very affordable, even in the touristy areas. For 10-12 CUC (around $10), you can get a hearty main course, a plate of sides, and a cocktail. Meal highlights included grilled lobsters served with garlic butter, shrimp stewed with tomato and onions, and ruby red ropa vieja, all washed down with plenty of rum.
Even better were our daily trips to the street churro stands (the one in the Plaza del Cristo has much shorter lines than the one at the Plaza Viejo), which served addictive churros unlike anything we’d ever eaten in the States. Less sugared, and always fried-to-order, they reminded me a bit of youtiao, the Chinese fried dough sticks you can often order with your rice porridge. We also took great advantage of the daily home-cooked breakfast offered by our casa particular, where for an extra 5 CUC, we could gorge ourselves on toast, fresh fruit, freshly blended juice, eggs scrambled with ham and cheese, and a fresh pot of coffee. Had we more time, I would've insisted on hunting down more of the paladares that are being hailed as the leaders of the modern Cuban food revival. One of my biggest regrets, and one of my reasons for wanting to return to Havana, is not being able to try the much-buzzed La Guarida due to a reservation mishap. I blame it on the country's shaky internet infrastructure, which we experienced firsthand, and is an adventure unto itself.
There's no shortage of places to pop in for live music and a Cuba Libre.
Resting near our favorite churro vendor.
While the burgeoning food scene is still in its infancy, there is plenty to do between meals. For museum enthusiasts, there is a huge list of options to check out just in Old Havana alone. For history buffs, there's the Museum of the Revolution; for arts lovers, there's the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes de La Habana, and that barely scratches the surface. There are also museums devoted to colonial art, religious art, music, cigars, cars, Havana history, and just about everything in between. Most are cheap, with admission costing 2-3 CUC, so it's easy to duck into anything that strikes your interest. It's also a good chance to get a closer look at some of the better preserved colonial buildings, as most of the museums and exhibits are housed within historic buildings carefully maintained by the government.
Personally, I was excited to see the Wifredo Lam Center, a modern art museum dedicated to the surrealist Afro-Chinese-Cuban painter whose contemporaries included Picasso and Matisse. During our visit, the center was showcasing a video installation by Czech artists Michael Bielicky and Kamila B. Richter. It was a multi-room interactive experience that took visitors through various rooms filled with projections commenting on the state of the world, U.S. and European politics, and environmental issues. It was a good reminder that despite the U.S.'s historical policies regarding Cuba, it certainly isn't isolated from the outside world; the country not only does business with much of the world, but has been a long-time tourism destination for other nationals, with over a million visits a year from Canada alone.
Another must-visit is the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, the former governors' residence-turned-museum dedicated to the history of Havana. In addition to the art and historical artifacts on display, it also has many of the living quarters and their original furnishings still intact.
The central courtyard at the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales.
Luis de las Casas, Spanish Governor of Cuba.
And then there's the Havana Cathedral, a stunning architectural marvel that will take your breath away despite the heavy crowds. Stately and imposing, it dominates the Plaza de la Catedral and overshadows everything else in the vicinity. It wasn't even until a second visit that we noticed the Museum of Colonial Art, a building that's notable for the rich history held within its walls, including being the residence of three-time governor Don Luis Chacon. It later changed hands several times, eventually becoming the home for Arechabala, the brand that eventually became the one and only Havana Club. We mostly remember it as the place we met Oscar, a local artist who used the plaza as his preferred drawing spot and frequent source of inspiration. Unlike some of the more mass-produced art that was offered in shops, his had a vibrancy that we fell in love with. We were drawn back time and time again, both for his art, and also just to chat with him and watch the crowds mill by.
The plaza in front of Havana Cathedral is always crowded, but it's well worth the visit.
Our new friend Oscar.
We found that we also spent a lot of time at Parque Central, across the street from the beautiful Gran Teatro de La Habana and the stately Hotel Inglaterra. It's the perfect home base after a day of exploring—it's one of the few WiFi hotspots in Old Havana, there's plentiful seating, and the Inglaterra provides free and easy access to public restrooms, something that's never glamorous to talk about, but always a relief to see when traveling in a new place. It's also a convenient landmark that sits on the edge of Old Havana, separating it from some of the other neighborhoods that are still completely worth exploring.
The Grand Theatre, with dozens of drivers waiting to take tourists for a cruise around Old Havana.
Money well spent.
The Inglaterra is also a good place to nab a quick tour in a classic car. Admittedly, it's a bit of a tourist trap, but it's a worthy splurge. There's something to be said about rumbling through the city in a cobalt blue convertible (or just about any color your heart desires), letting the sun bounce off your skin as you pass the usual landmarks. It's peaceful, and despite the gorgeous sights all around you, it makes you finally put down your camera and soak in the experience.
Push west of the nub that is Old Havana and you'll be in Central Havana, a bustling residential neighborhood where locals predominate, and kids play among the exposed courtyards. Here, too, the buildings are stunning, swathed in soft pinks, minty greens and bright blues, framed by ornate ironwork and stone embellishments, and sometimes surrounded by the rubble of neighboring homes mid-renovation or abandoned.
It's just as safe here as it is in Old Havana, even wandering around at night, although the further we wandered from the more heavily touristed parts, the more we were cat-called. Being Asian, I also heard various strains of "China, China" ("Chee-na"), including one particularly in-my-face, "Hola, China girl!" It didn't feel malicious, but it did wear on me over time. We had one encounter that was more positive, when one of our paladar servers excitedly told me his ancestry was Cuban-Chinese. I've since read that it's simply not that common to see East Asians outside of the touristy parts of Cuba anymore, and even Chinatown is noticeably bereft of people who look prominently East Asian. It's made me curious about the history of Chinese migration to Cuba and the Caribbean, much of which seemed to happen in the mid-to-late-1800s, although the Chinese-Cuban community has made a concerted effort in recent decades to reinvigorate their cultural roots.
Centro is filled with residential streets like this.
Tall ceilings and balconies mark much of the houses in this part of Havana.
One thing we learned early on was to always keep some smaller denominations on us. Especially in Old Havana, there's a strong streak of what Americans would admiringly call "hustle," where some locals smartly seize opportunity from the tourists flowing through the many town squares and plazas. We saw this time and again from brightly dressed people who were more than happy to be the subject of photos for a tip.
How could anyone pass up a photo opportunity like this?
While I am generally not terribly gullible, I was duped once, during a bewildering encounter at the Castillo de la Real Fuerza. The fort itself is remarkable, and carries the distinction of being the oldest stone fort in the Americas, and has now been also converted to a museum. Inside, one of the employees reached for my camera. Confused, I handed it to her, and she took a few photos of my friend and I, then proceeded to snap several photos of the model fort housed in the room we were in, and a few photos from the embrasure. My friend and I stared at each other, wondering when my camera would be surrendered back to me, but fully expecting what happened next —when she did hand it back, she leaned over and whispered, "My grandmother is sick. If you could help, please." Still stunned, I wordlessly handed her 1 CUC, which she received with a "Shhhhhh," a finger to her lips, and a glance at the museum guards in the hallway. We got a good chuckle out of it afterwards, and continued to explore the fort.
Castillo de la Real Fuerza.
Another reason to have smaller notes on hand is it can really come in handy if you plan on buying from smaller shops, be they clothing shops or bodegas. Many of the stores and vendors that we stopped by in the mornings did not have change for larger bills until later in the day. If you need to break a large bill, the craft fair on Calle Obispo (open daily, free admission) is a good place to do so, as well as the currency exchange centers.
Havana's strays are happy to pose for photos.
Of all the cities and countries I've visited in the past several years, this is the trip that I still think about most frequently. Of course, I realize that waltzing in for a few days is a wildly different experience than living in Cuba, especially outside of Old Havana, and I don't want to exoticize the city. Yet I do believe that visiting it is a profound experience, one that rewires our media-fueled preconceptions of Cuba and its people, who are incredibly kind and hospitable. Havana is the kind of place that leaves a stamp on you. It steals a part of you, and adds it to a time capsule that will never be buried. And once you go, it's impossible to not want to go back.
A few travel tips:
Money: Cuba uses two forms of currency, the peso (CUP) for locals, and the convertible peso (CUC) for tourists. For the most part, all the shops and restaurants that predominantly cater to tourists will have their prices listed very clearly, so there shouldn’t be any confusion. We stayed in a tourist-heavy area, so we didn't find the need to exchange any CUCs for CUPs, but if you stray to places that don't see a lot of travelers, you may want to have some pesos on hand. The exchange rate fluctuates, but is roughly 1 CUC to 1 US dollar. There is a 10% penalty to change USD to CUC, and an additional 3% transaction fee on top of that, which is why some websites recommend bringing Euros, CAD, or British pounds instead. Unless you can get a good rate on your exchange, though, the inconvenience may not be worth it.
U.S. debit and credit cards don't work in Cuba as of yet, so bring all the cash you think you'll need, plus extra for emergencies. I brought $500 with me on our short three-day trip, and decided to only exchange $300 upfront. I found that it was plenty for everything we wanted to do, buy, and eat, with enough left over to bring back my maximum personal allotment of rum and cigars.
Internet: If you like using the internet to plan your trips and pick places to eat, try to do it before you get to Cuba. There are only a hundred or so wireless hotspots in Cuba, all of which require internet cards to use and cost 2 CUC per hour of connectivity. And even if you find yourself near a hotspot, be warned that the internet speeds are very, very slow—assuming you can even connect. It is a struggle just to coax your phone to log onto the network and then stay connected long enough to get any page to load.
